Amble and Roam Travel

The Holy City and Me.

WRITTEN AUG 29, 2026

I have a unique relationship with Charleston, South Carolina, and it has evolved so much over the past 25 years.

Charleston was my home for 4 years, beginning in the fall of 2001, when I was a student at The College of Charleston. It is a beautiful historic campus in the heart of the peninsula and such an idyllic place to live and go to school.

My experience of Charleston as a student was pizza joints and student discounts, campus cafeterias and evening jogs through quiet old streets, studying in parks and on beaches, live music, and countless hours simply walking the city with friends.

These days, it is some of the same and some things very different. The city has grown and changed so much over the years. The list of beach towns and restaurants we want to visit is always long, and each time we go back, we somehow manage to add more favorites to the list for next time.

It is almost overwhelming to tackle a letter about Charleston because there is so much history, so much good food and so many interesting parts of the city and surrounding areas to explore. So rather than sharing an exact itinerary, I am going to organize my thoughts around some of our favorite parts of Charleston from our visits over the years.

Where to Stay

The first decision we are always faced with is where to stay. We are typically weighing a spot in the heart of Charleston against staying in one of nearby beach towns. For our last couple of visits, we landed on Folly Beach.

I love Folly Beach. It was our beach of choice as students, too. We would gather at an area on the Northeast end of the island that we called the Washout. It was a popular spot for surfing and provided ample street parking as well as a quiet stretch of beach with fewer houses.

If you drive all the way to the Northeastern tip of the island, where the road comes to a dead end, you can park and walk through the Lighthouse Inlet Heritage Preserve. The graffiti-covered path eventually gives way to sand and leads to the beach, where you have a view of the Morris Island Lighthouse. It’s a beautiful quiet spot for walking, birdwatching, and beachcombing.

And the town of Folly itself is a laid back, funky little surf town with casual restaurants and a small grocery store. I love the quiet but eclectic vibe of the island, which is why we keep coming back.

On the other hand, staying in downtown Charleston is an amazing experience in its own right. The peninsula is incredibly walkable with parks, historic streets, restaurants, shops, and beautiful homes around every corner. The amount of history packed into this small area can feel infinite.

There are also many boutique and luxury hotels to choose from in Charleston. A few that have caught my eye are:

The Dewberry Charleston – a well known hotel with a mid-century aesthetic.

The Cooper – a luxury waterfront hotel with views of the harbor.

The Pinch – a luxury boutique hotel in the historic district.

The Spectator Hotel – a 1920’s style luxury boutique hotel.

Charleston truly has something for everyone when it comes to accommodations. You can find lower priced options through Hilton or Marriott, smaller three-star inns, vacation rentals, and plenty of options in between.

And if you need even more choices, look North of the peninsula to Mount Pleasant, Isle of Palms and Sullivans Island.

Mount Pleasant has more of a suburban feel, but it is conveniently located for a short drive into Charleston as well as the beaches at Isle of Palms and Sullivans Island.

Isle of Palms and Sullivans Island are both more high-end beach choices. Isle of Palms is the more popular option and offers more of a traditional family vacation. Sullivans Island is quieter and more residential with a polished and upscale feel. I personally love the charm of Sullivans Island.

Wherever we stay, we have no issue keeping ourselves busy. Over the years, we have had so much fun exploring the beaches, museums, historic sites, and, of course, eating our way through the city.

Things to Do

It would be nearly impossible for me to describe every favorite activity and place we have experienced over the years, but I will try my best to hit the high points, along with a few things that are still on our wish list.

Things We Have Done – And Would Do Again

• Charleston Fossil Adventures – This is at the very top of our family’s favorites list. We did a fossil tour with Ashby Gale a couple years ago, in 2024. It started with a short boat ride through the marsh to a small barrier island, where we spent the afternoon with two paleontologists guiding us on a fossil hunt. We found handfuls of fossils and fossilized shark teeth. The best part was having experts with us to help identify what we were finding and teaching us what to look for. It was such a fun family experience.
• South Carolina Aquarium – located right in downtown Charleston and an easy addition to a day in the city.
• Walking Tours – A great way to see the city and learn some of the history that makes Charleston so fascinating.
• Shopping on King Street – A classic Charleston day.
• Relaxing in the parks – Charleston has many beautiful spots to sit and slow down.
  • Waterfront Park – the iconic pineapple fountain is here, along with a small pier with swings and grassy areas for sitting.
  • The Battery and White Point Garden – grassy park with beautiful live oaks and a boardwalk along the water. The waterfront street adjacent to the park is lined with gorgeous historic mansions.
  • Marion Square – large park at the corner of Calhoun and King Streets. On Saturdays from April through October, a farmers market takes over part of the square. It is also a great place for kids to run and stretch their legs. We always have a frisbee with us, so this became our spot for throwing.
• Walk through the College of Charleston campus, particularly the Cistern Yard. I may be biased, but I think it is the most beautiful college campus there is.
• Walk past Rainbow Row – a row of colorful houses worth seeing at least once.
• The Gibbes Museum of Art – A lovely downtown art museum with rotating exhibits as well as a permanent collection. Known for its collection of portrait miniatures.
• Tour the Yorktown aircraft carrier at Patriot’s Point.
• Kayak through the marsh with Charleston Outdoor Adventures – this will give you a completely different perspective of the lowcountry landscape.
• Drive to see the Angel Oak Tree – This sprawling oak tree is estimated to be 300 to 400 years old. About 30 minutes outside of Charleston
• Spend a day at the beach – Folly Beach, Isle of Palms, Sullivan’s Island
• Go fishing – Visit Folly Pier, Mount Pleasant Pier, Shem Creek Park, or book a charter.Our group on our fossil tour with Charleston Fossil Adventures (Photo by author).

Still on My Charleston Wishlist

There are a few places I have had on my radar for a while:

• Gullah Tours – I would love to learn more about the Gullah culture that is so intertwined in Charleston’s history.
• Smithey Ironware – I would plan a visit to their showroom. I wish there was a factory tour, but I still think it may be worth a stop on the way into town.
• High Wire Distilling Tour – Years ago, I read a story about their use of Jimmy Red Corn in their process. The history of the corn and their work to revive it was fascinating to me, I would love to hear more.
• Tour of Fort Sumter and/or Fort Moultrie – Fort Sumter is reached by ferry, and Fort Moultrie can be visited on Sullivan’s Island. Even if you don’t do the Fort Sumter tour, you can still stop by the Fort Sumter visitor’s center downtown.
• The Charleston Museum – Founded in 1773 and referred to as “America’s First Museum”.
• The Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon – This historic building that has had many identities since 1771, including being used by the British to house American prisoners of war during the Revolutionary war.

Come Hungry

If you are an active traveler who loves to pack your days full of tours and museums, you can absolutely make that happen in Charleston.

But I think Charleston really shines if you enjoy taking it easy, sitting in a park, finding a quiet cafe for a coffee, and wandering the streets.

The sheer volume of good restaurants in Charleston is impressive. We usually arrive with an idea of a few places we would like to try and a few old trusties we would like to return to. Planning ahead at least for your dinners will keep your days running smoothly, especially if you are traveling with a larger group.

As with the activities, it would be impossible for me to list every restaurant and coffee shop we have tried over the years. So, in an effort to keep this letter from turning into a 20 page Charleston guide, here are a few places that have stood out to us.

Places We Have Been – And Would Return To:

• Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit – a great downtown breakfast spot with biscuits our whole family enjoys.
• 167 Raw – a seafood raw bar serving fresh shrimp, oysters, and lobster rolls. They have moved spaces since our visit, but they remain on our list.
• R Kitchen – We ate here years ago and it was a very memorable experience. It is a set menu, and you may not know what you will be eating before arriving. The room is small, and the chefs explain the meal as the cook and then serve you from the open kitchen adjacent to the tables. It is intimate and personal in a way that is very different from a traditional restaurant meal. Reservations are required, and I recommend the downtown location.
• Edmund’s Oast – Family friendly brewery and restaurant with a large outdoor seating area.
• Leon’s Oyster Shop – Southern seafood and fried chicken in a fun and casual atmosphere.
• Kudu – An excellent downtown coffee shop, which also serves craft beer and wine.
• Over the Horizon Brewery – A nice relaxed spot with a patio and food. On the day we visited, they had ice cream for the kids.
• Obstinate Daughter – A beautiful Sullivan’s Island spot described as eclectic southern cuisine. We took the whole family here for a fun meal, and they have wood fired pizza on the menu too. There is also a gelato shop downstairs called Bear Cats Sweet Shop.
• Lost Dog Cafe – A casual breakfast and lunch spot in Folly Beach.
• Rita’s Seaside Cafe – A family friendly beach bar and restaurant in Folly Beach.
• Bert’s Market – A small Folly Beach market with burgers, hot dogs, sandwiches, beer and wine.
• Center Street Coffee – A good coffee stop in Folly Beach.

Still on My Dining List

And then there are places I have had on my radar for years because they have stood the test of time or because I have consistently heard good things about them:

• Poogan’s Porch – A classic in Charleston that has been around since the 70’s, and somehow I have never been.
• Lewis BBQ – Highly regarded Texas-style BBQ.
• Chubby Fish – A small seafood restaurant focused on fresh seasonal seafood straight from the local docks.
• FIG – FIG opened while I was living in Charleston and has endured all these years. The restaurant focuses on fresh seasonal dishes with menus that change throughout the year.
• Indaco or Melfi’s – Two Italian options on King Street that would be worth a try.
• The Darling Oyster Bar – I am always looking for a good oyster when in Charleston.
• Brown Dog Deli – Deli sandwiches to take along for a picnic.
• Nook Tiny Cafe & Wine Bar – Specialty coffee and wine in a very cute tiny space.
• Bad Bunnies Coffee – On my list to stop by for an espresso.

This is Not Farewell, Charleston

And with that, I have still only scratched the surface of what Charleston has to offer.

But perhaps, that is why it keeps us coming back.

I love revisiting places that once felt like home. I walked the streets as a college student and now get to explore the same places with my family. The beach days keep changing, and the city has grown and matured, but yet it still feels like Charleston.

And with each destination that I revisit in these letters, I find myself feeling nostalgic and wishing for a return.

This could become a problem.

There are simply too many special places and too little time.

Charleston, you will always have a piece of my heart.

See you soon.