Belgium and Amsterdam | June 2024
WRITTEN SEP 05, 2026
As I’ve been planning our family’s fall trip to Reykjavik and Amsterdam, I’ve found myself thinking back to our first trip to Amsterdam in 2024. It seemed like a good time to revisit that adventure – and the places that made us want to go back.
Our Itinerary at a Glance
Keep Reading below the itinerary for all the details
Saturday
Overnight flight to Amsterdam
Sunday
Arrive in Amsterdam
Train to Brussels Belgium
Check in to Lodging
Walk the city – Grand Place
Dinner – Mer du Nord
Monday – Brussels
Breakfast – Boudin Cafe
Museum of Illusions
Choco Story Museum
Snacks throughout the afternoon
Frites Atelier
Waffles
Gaston for Ice Cream
Atomium
Tuesday – Ghent and Bruges
Train to Ghent
Breakfast – Caffe Rosario
Gravensteen Tour
Walk the city
Lunch – DOK Brewing
Train to Bruges
Walk the city
Canal cruise
Dinner – L’Estaminet
Train to Brussels
Wednesday – Amsterdam
Train to Amsterdam
Check in to Lodging
A’dam Lookout and This is Holland
Dinner
Thursday – Amsterdam
Breakfast – The Pancake Bakery
Rijksmuseum
Lunch – Albert Cuyp Market
Walk the city and Vondelpark
Dinner – Foodhallen
Friday – Biking Waterland
Uber to Volendam
Breakfast – Romy’s Kitchen
Rent bikes from Rent and Event
Self guided biking day through the Waterland region
Monnickendam
Marken
Ferry back to Volendam
Poffertjes snack
Lunch in Marken
Uber back to Amsterdam
Van Gogh Museum
Dinner at our lodging
Saturday
Fly home to Nashville
A Quickly Planned Trip to Belgium and the Netherlands
In the summer of 2024, Tyler was asked to attend a work conference in Brussels in early June. Because the kids would be on summer break, we saw it as an opportunity to take the entire family along and explore somewhere new. We had just three weeks to plan from the time he booked his travel.
Brussels is a relatively small city. so we mapped out a plan to see a couple of nearby towns while we were there. We then extended our trip into a week long summer vacation so we could also venture into the Netherlands.
Cost-wise, it made the most sense for our family to fly into Amsterdam and navigate between the two countries by train. So, upon arriving in Amsterdam, we made our way straight to the train platform and boarded a train to Brussels.
Brussels, Belgium
After a short walk to check in to our lodging in Brussels, we had time for an evening walk and dinner before turning in for the night.
Finding our Airbnb was an adventure in itself. We navigated to the street address and first had to walk through a market and a coffee shop into a hallway that led to either a narrow, winding staircase or a tiny elevator designed for one or two people – which gave us pause. We later discovered – the hard way- that this elevator had a tendency to get stuck between floors.
Once we made it up the stairs, though, our room was great. French doors opened onto a beautiful view over the park. A gentle breeze came through the doors carrying the sounds of string music and church bells from the city below.
It was quite the welcome to Brussels.
The weather was beautiful that afternoon, and the city felt quaint and very walkable. Many of the streets from our lodging towards our dinner spot were pedestrian only, and our route took us through the Grand Place, a beautiful 17th century square framed by buildings with ornate architecture.
We happened upon a small seafood restaurant called Mer du Nord, near the Church of Saint Catherine, and stood at a high-top table on the sidewalk while enjoying a variety of seafood including, shrimp croquettes and kibbeling, or fried fish bites.
Our goal for the evening had been to stay awake until a decent time that we could reasonably call bedtime. Having succeeded, we made our way back to our room and crashed for the night.
Where We Stayed
For this trip, we chose an Airbnb for our base in Brussels. It was walkable to both the train station and the center of the city, and we liked having a small kitchen for snacks and simple meals.
For a more traditional stay, a few other Brussels options I came across were:
A Rainy Day in Brussels
We were visiting in early June. The air was crisp and our days were a mix of drizzly rain interrupted by occasional bouts of sunshine.
The kids and I had a free day while Tyler attended the conference, so we geared up in our rain coats and set out to explore. We started at Boudin Cafe for pastries and coffee.
Our plan for the day was all about what the kids wanted to see and do – so this meant waffles, chocolate, belgian fries, ice cream and fun museums.
Our first stop was the Museum of Illusions. For a small museum, we spent a good amount of time here. The kids loved the exhibits, taking trick photos and working through the puzzles. It was the perfect rainy-day stop to kick off our day.
After the museum, we found a waffle stall on the street and learned that there are two types of waffles to choose from.
The Liege waffle is denser, chewier, and sweeter. The Brussels waffle is crisp on the outside but light and airy in the middle. They both chose the Brussels waffle topped with whipped cream, strawberries, and nutella – a safe bet for a delicious snack.
In an effort to keep our sugar rush going, we started walking towards the chocolate museum, Choco Story Brussels.
We each had an audio guide to use throughout the museum. I found the history and chocolate facts to be interesting, while the kids buzzed around picking and choosing which spots they actually stopped to listen to. They were pretty swift to blow through the exhibits and make their way towards the chocolate-making demonstration that caps off the tour.
After a morning full of sweets, we needed something salty to balance our palate. We had been looking forward to trying Belgian fries, so we walked into Frites Atelier and placed our order.
Belgian fries are thick cut, made with a specific potato, and fried twice in beef fat – and they totally lived up to the hype. The menu was full of choices with extravagant toppings. We kept ours pretty plain but chose a few dipping sauces to try.
This is where our daughter discovered her love of fries dipped in mayo.
We returned to our Airbnb for a little downtime before calling an Uber to take us to the Atomium outside the city.
The Atomium is a structure that was created for a World Fair in the 1950’s. It is made up of 9 giant silver spheres connected by tubes. Our visit allowed us to enter the structure and visit the interior of 5 or 6 of the spheres which were connected by escalators through the tubes. Each sphere had something to offer whether it be a history or art exhibit, panoramic views, or a light and music show.
Our tickets to the Atomium included admission to Mini Europe which was located just outside. We did a quick walk through, identifying some iconic European landmarks, but this park seems better suited for younger kids and families.
We made our way back into Brussels to meet up with Tyler after his meeting and, very fittingly, ended the day with an ice cream at Gaston.
The sun had finally come out, and we were able to sit by a pond and enjoy our treat before turning in for the evening.
Trains to Ghent and Bruges
Tyler’s conference had ended, which meant our family vacation was officially beginning.
We knew we wanted to get outside of Brussels and see a little more of Belgium. We debated choosing Ghent or Bruges, but in the end decided we could do both.
The kids were 10 and 12 at the time so we had the tendency to move fast through our sightseeing. We did our best to find ways to balance museums and historical sights with sweet treats and fun tours.
The train to Ghent was about 35 to 40 minutes. We stepped off the train and into Caffe Rosario for breakfast.
Waffles are never far away in Belgium.
Of the three towns we experienced in Belgium, Ghent was my favorite. It felt like a real and very liveable city with historic character. Had we been able to avoid the rain, I could have spent a full day here.
Our main stop in Ghent was Gravensteen, a medieval castle from 1180 inhabited by a Count until the 1300’s. Again, we had an audio tour, but this one kept the kids more engaged. We explored the grounds, and the tour moved with us from room to room. The audio was performed by a comedian and gave a humorous account of the history of the castle.
The rain really picked up after our castle tour. We ducked into St. Bavo’s Cathedral, where the Ghent Altarpiece is housed. We did not see the Altarpiece this time, but it will definitely be added to the list of places we need to return to. The church itself was a beautiful sight, built over hundreds of years from the 13th to the 16th centuries.
We tried to brave the rain and walk the canals and squares. We made it as far as coffee at Mokabon and a stop at a push cart to try the Cuberdon candy also known as a “Ghent’s nose”.
It is a cone shaped candy with raspberry flavor and a unique consistency.
We had lasted as long as we could walking in the rain. We opted to head indoors for lunch before catching our next train to Bruges.
We grabbed lunch at DOK Brewing in Ghent – it was spacious, family friendly and had great food to keep us fueled for the afternoon.
The train from Ghent to Bruges was only about 25-30 minutes, and when we arrived, the rain clouds cleared and the sun came out.
Bruges is a cheery, colorful, and absolutely beautiful medieval town. The highlight of visiting Bruges is definitely the scenery and atmosphere. And while Ghent felt more real and lived in, Bruges is the more popular spot and almost has a Disney feel to it – the cleanliness and colorful architecture make it feel almost too perfect.
We walked around the city seeing the shops and the main square at the center. It is all very compact and walkable. The crowds were noticeably heavier than in Ghent and Brussels, but not uncomfortably so.
We took a canal tour, which was a stunning way to see the city on a sunny day.
We ended our afternoon with an early dinner at L’Estaminet. They were so kind at the restaurant, and we found a seat on the quiet sidewalk patio and enjoyed a great meal.
Following days of wandering, we love an early dinner when we travel. Finding a spot for an early dinner in Belgium was challenging. Many places were closed between lunch and dinner, usually from about 2:00 to 6:00 pm. Finding a spot like L’Estaminet that was still serving at 5:00 felt like a big win.
We boarded our train for the roughly one hour ride back to Brussels. The next day we would make our way back to Amsterdam for a couple days in the Netherlands.
Back To Amsterdam
Our two and half to three hour train ride deposited us back in Amsterdam by the afternoon.
For our stay, we again chose an airbnb full of character. We were looking for a quiet spot for this part of the trip, rather than being in the middle of all the action. Sometimes coming home to a relaxing and peaceful room after a day in a busy city can be quite nice.
We found a 350 year old captain’s house located on the water in Amsterdam Noord, down a quiet lane.
We loved the neighborhood. There was a small restaurant a couple doors down where families on the block seemed to gather on the patio in the evenings for dinner and a drink. And the public transportation in Amsterdam is a marvel, so we learned quickly how to use the buses and trains to get into the city for our sightseeing.
There are many options for accommodations within the city when being convenient to the sights is more appealing. Here are a few beautiful hotels that I came across in my searches:
Pillows Grand Boutique Hotel Maurits at the Park
After dropping our belongings, we made our way to the A’dam Lookout.
The lookout is a rooftop with an amazing view of the city across the water. We took our time enjoying the view and taking some photos. We chose not to partake in the virtual reality activity or the rooftop swing that swings out over the edge of the roof.
Yikes.
We did buy tickets to the neighboring attraction, This is Holland. Coupled with the Lookout, this really was a great introduction to the city.
It is a 5D ride – think SOAR at Disney World – that takes you on a 1 hour journey through the past and present of Holland briefly covering both the history and the geography of the country.
On our way back to the Airbnb, we found a restaurant on our route for a quick and easy dinner.
The walk had us all in disbelief as we tried to cross bike lanes to get to our destination. I had never seen so many bike riders commuting through a city in my life.
The kids were itching to join in the fun, but it was evident to me that we needed to find a less intimidating way to do so.
Pancakes, Markets, and Museums
Thankfully, the rain moved out of the forecast for the remainder of our stay in the Netherlands.
The next day we had a leisurely morning before making our way into Amsterdam for breakfast. I had promised the family pancakes, so we had reservations for The Pancake Bakery.
There are many options in town but this one worked out well for us.
The menu was extensive, offering both savory and sweet options. And the pancakes were enormous. Dutch pancakes are much larger but also thinner than a traditional American pancake.
Pancake breakfasts in Amsterdam are what kids’ dreams are made of.
Most of our day was open for exploring at our own pace. We loved navigating the network of trams and trains to get around. We walked the streets in a couple neighborhoods, had a snack in Vondelpark, and browsed the Albert Cuyp Market.
The kids enjoyed finding a couple small souvenirs in the market to take home to friends, and even tried pickled herring – although it was not a hit.
Stroopwafel’s were another food on our wishlist for the week. We walked to a shop called Melly’s Stroopwafel’s where they serve the stroopwafels fresh after being pressed on a warm iron.
The original was my choice, but the kids really went for it with the brownie fudge and hazelnut flavors.
The Rijkmuseum was next on the itinerary.
The museum has a beautiful collection of Dutch art, including works by artists such as Rembrandt and Vermeer. The museum also offers a game called family quest. Each player gets a handheld device and headphones. The goal is to discover secrets throughout the museum.
Our kids did not stay engaged with the game but I think it could be fun for most kids between the ages of 7 to 10.
Following a full day of walking the markets and parks, we decided on Foodhallen for dinner.
Finding a good foodhall when we travel is always nice for a casual dinner that allows everyone to order whatever sounds best. The stalls in the hall ranged from seafood to burgers to vietnamese and spanish tapas – to plenty of other options in between.
We returned to our Airbnb for an early evening in. The kids were ready to lounge and Tyler and I walked downstairs to the neighborhood cafe, Cafe ‘t Sluisje, to sit on the waterside terrace for a drink and a moment’s peace.
Bikes and Van Gogh
Our last two days in Amsterdam were purposefully scheduled in a way that would make a bike ride possible if we decided to go for it.
After seeing the bike scene in the city, I was pretty terrified by the idea of trying to corral our family of four through the hustle and bustle of biking commuters and congested bike lanes.
I arranged a compromise that would get us on bikes – but also get us out of the madness that is commuting through Amsterdam.
We woke up on our final day and called an Uber to take us outside the city into a small fishing village called Volendam.
We walked into Romy’s Kitchen for a hearty breakfast before picking up our bikes. Romy’s is a small restaurant and can get busy, but the staff was so kind and accommodating, and the meal was worth the wait.
The day before, I had reached out to a bike shop in Volendam called Rent & Event. Our wish was to see some of the countryside and a different side of the Netherlands than what we had seen in the city. We were also hoping to find a self guided option rather than being part of a group.
The staff at Rent & Event were amazing. They assured me that they “had never lost anyone before”.
We rented our bikes and they had a couple of recommended routes for us to choose from. We chose a half day route that would take us through the Waterland region, with stops in Monnickendam and Marken, both fishing villages. Upon arriving in Marken, we could board the ferry with our bikes to return to Volendam.
We scanned a QR code that opened the route in our google maps app, and off we went.
The route was extremely easy to navigate with our map and made for the most relaxing day of biking in an outstanding landscape.
Along the way, we passed a windmill near Katwoude, and stopped at a family run cheese farm called Willig. We were mostly on paved dedicated bike lanes throughout our ride, and had left all of the crowds and congestion behind.
In Monnickendam and Marken, we stopped and got off the bikes for a while to walk the old streets and roam around the villages.
Once in Marken, we also found a nice spot to sit for lunch at De Taanketel before boarding the ferry for our return.
Our kids were truly sad that our biking day had come to an end. They fought hard to ride the route back to Volendam instead of taking the ferry. But we had snagged an evening entrance for the Van Gogh museum and needed to get back to the city.
If not for that, we likely would have been logging more miles on the bikes.
For a plan that came together last minute, this day was the high point of the trip for all of us.
We returned our bikes in Volendam and walked the cute boardwalk lined with shops. The kids happened upon some fishermen unloading their net full of eels onto the dock, and we could barely peel them away from the scene.
A large cart with white globe lights was selling poffertjes along the boardwalk. Although we had just eaten, we couldn’t pass up the chance to try them.
They are a small, pancake-like snack that are puffed into light, round balls, about the size of a golf ball, then drizzled with melted butter and dusted with powdered sugar.
They were destined to be delicious.
An Uber carted us back to Amsterdam just in time for our entrance to the Van Gogh Museum. Because we had to plan the trip within a short three weeks, we had few choices for ticket times for this museum. Had we had an alternative, I may not have scheduled it at the end of a day of biking.
That being said, the Van Gogh Museum was quite special.
The kids recognized several of the pieces and were more engaged than they had been in the Rijksmuseum – which speaks volumes considering that they were tired from their day.
We picked up a scavenger hunt guide for our daughter at the information desk, which she really enjoyed completing. The number of pieces held in this museum was impressive and the visit ended up being a really great endcap to our day.
What We’d Do Again
Take the Last Minute Trip
With only a few weeks to prepare, there were some things we missed out on, including the Anne Frank House, and some reservations where we simply had to take whatever we could get as far as times.
But we have so many wonderful memories that we took away from this adventure.
Spend a Day in Ghent
I would like more time in Ghent – preferably without the rain so we can take our time seeing the city and paying a visit to the Ghent Altarpiece.
Try All the Local Foods
We had a long list of foods we were excited to try before this trip and I think we managed to check them all off.
There’s something fun about tasting the cuisine away from home, and eating all the sweets.
Between these two countries, we enjoyed pancakes, waffles, belgian fries, poffertjes, pickled herring, cuberdons, kibbeling and stroopwafels.
My favorites were the fries and stroopwafels.
Stay in a Quiet Neighborhood
It may not be for everyone or for every trip, but I really enjoyed returning to a quiet base each night and enjoying a drink on the terrace by the water.
Rent the Bikes
Renting the bikes for a self guided tour in the Waterland region, in a country with the nicest bike lanes and routes, made for the overall favorite day of our trip.
Of course, there are many wonderful guided tours to choose from that leave from the city, but there was something about the freedom and the quiet scenery that made it just perfect.
Our Plans to Return
I’m not sure that we would have chosen Belgium or the Netherlands as our next destination had Brussels not been chosen for us.
I’m so glad it was.
It was such a comfortable and friendly place to visit, and the landscapes were so unique.
By the time we left, our son was certain that he would one day return to live in Amsterdam. And honestly, I think he would love it there.
We have our first return trip booked this fall, and we are already counting down the days. We will be flying through Iceland, with a two night stopover in Reykjavik, and then on to Amsterdam.
We will be able to tour the Anne Frank House this trip. We were sorry to have missed it last time and it feels like an important stop to make when visiting Amsterdam.
There are also so many towns in the Netherlands that would make a great day trip from Amsterdam, whether it be to university towns, modern cities, fields of tulips and windmills, fishing villages, or coastal towns on the North Sea.
It will be difficult to choose, but I think we will visit a couple more this fall. Stay tuned to find out where we end up.
And we can’t wait to get back on the bikes.
So hopefully, before the end of the year, I will have more wonderful tales to tell of cycling Dutch landscapes, more pancakes, and more stroopwafels.
As always, if you’ve been contemplating your own overseas journey with a little room left to amble and roam, send me a message. I’d be happy to help you plan it.
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